If you found your way to this post through Facebook, then you undoubtedly also saw my onslaught of pictures earlier this month from our family trip to Paris. I wanted to write about it mostly for my own memory, but also because a few people have asked for tips on traveling to Paris with kids. I am by no means an expert - this was my first trip to Paris and first international trip with the kids - but maybe being such a newbie will make it easier to remember the questions I had going into the trip. Here are my tips and highlights!
Kid specific tips:
- Food - is absolutely wonderful!! And at most sidewalk cafes, is pretty kid / American friendly. Everywhere we went, they generally had things that were more of a reach for kids (like escargot or beef tartare), but almost always had a burger or a croque monsieur (hot ham and cheese sandwich) as an option. We have one extremely picky eater so we brought two jars of peanut butter and just always had a peanut butter sandwich stowed away when we were out and about, and none of the restaurants made a fuss about him not eating their food. There are also creperies, bakeries, and pastry shops all over the place, and a picky kid could eat very well off just these stops.
- Transportation - there is a lot of walking and a lot of stairs - you definitely want to wear comfortable walking shoes and be ready to walk at least 5 miles / 10 flights of stairs per day, if not more. We took the Metro as much as possible and the kids absolutely loved that - helping figure out the routes, rushing on and off the train, trying not to fall over at stops - the whole thing - we all kept our Metro cards as part of the memory of the trip. I would also say that other novel forms of transportation that aren't part of our everyday experience in the States, like taking a double-decker bus tour, a boat ride on the Seine, or a train ride out to Giverny - those were part of the fun of the trip and not just a means to get from Point A to Point B.
- Language - The French people certainly appreciate if you start every interaction with "Bonjour" and if you learn a few of the very basic phrases - but that said, most Parisians are able to speak at least a little English, enough that you can get directions, make a transaction, or ask where the restroom is. This was not a big or intimidating barrier. And when you need to figure something out, say like, "what is this food at the market?", Smartphones are a big help in bridging that gap. (I will also just add, I was prepared for Parisians to be rude to us as Americans, and we didn't have one single rude interaction - they were polite and kind across the board.)
- Parks - One of the things I loved about Paris as compared to, say, Manhattan, is that green spaces abound. You don't really have to plan for this - there are cute little squares to rest and enjoy some nature every few blocks. When kids need a break from the crowds or museums to run around or take a bench for a bit, these were not hard to find. And were often an excellent place to people watch.
Anything to watch out for:
- Huge crowds - this is the main thing. For all the major attractions (Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, the Louvre, and Versailles especially) -- book tickets ahead, look up tips for the least crowded times to go (which will generally be weekdays and earlier in the morning for a start time), and prepare yourself that these things are going to involve some lines and some crowds even if you do follow the tips.
- Pickpockets / general safety - I got the impression from Instagram that this was going to be a bigger issue than it seemed to be, not that it's a complete non-issue. Just like in any big city, you watch your purse on very crowded Metro stops or in very crowded and touristy areas. Overall, I never felt unsafe, including going out for walks after dark.
Favorite parts:
- By far my favorite part was the overall vibe and the abounding beauty everywhere. Not just in the world famous museums and churches, but in all the architecture, the tucked away parks, the way food is served - all of it is beautiful. And there's such an intermingling of history and art and nature and religion that it's hard to say where one stops and the other begins, all of them celebrating the beauty of all the others.
- The food was also a huge highlight. We had a bakery across the street that was a daily stop for fresh bread and shared pastries for dessert. The sidewalk cafes were so cute.
- Museums:
- D'Orsay was my favorite museum and my favorite overall outing of the trip. This museum is set in a beautiful old train building and focuses on art from the late 1800s / early 1900s - so they have an amazing impressionist collection (with many Van Goghs and Monets), lots of sculptures, and lots of other really great paintings.
- The Louvre - world famous for a reason. The breadth and scope of the museum as a whole was both amazing and to me a little overwhelming. Would be fun if you lived here to tackle one area at a time over a year - if you're visiting for a day, it's a good idea to come in knowing what you want to see, as you won't be able to see it all.
- Petit Palace - this one is free, and while not as amazing as the two listed above, is well worth a stop if you find yourself with an extra couple hours. Has paintings from a similar era to D'Orsay and is also in a beautiful building.
- Cathedrals:
- Sainte Chappelle - this was the most surprising - you walk up a very narrow spiral stone staircase like you're in a secret passageway in Harry Potter, and then all of a sudden enter into this room that is glowing, surrounded by towering stained glass, takes your breath away.
- Notre Dame and Sacre Coure - beautiful, majestic, massive in scale - lots of scenes from the Bible laid out in murals, stonework, paintings, and stained glass in all 3 cathedrals.
- Monuments:
- Eiffel Tower at night - after dark, not only is the Eiffel Tower lit up, but for the first five minutes of every hour, it sparkles. This was magical and one of my favorite moments of the trip.
- Going up it was fun for our first time trip, but I wouldn't repeat that - mostly because of the crowds, but also because the most iconic part of the Paris skyline from above is the Eiffel Tower, which you're not really seeing when you're in it.
- We saw the Arc de Triomphe from the ground but didn't go up it - if we did a return trip, I would probably go up this one rather than the Eiffel Tower for a change of pace.
- Day Trips:
- Giverny was my favorite day trip; it was crowded, but the beautiful lily garden and the view from Monet's window were stunning and worth it.
- Versailles was absolutely worth seeing, but the crowds (especially inside) were overwhelming - if I went back, would spend most of the time outdoors in the Gardens (and would rent a golf cart to be able to get to the far reaches).
- Favorite neighborhoods to stroll:
- Montmarte (Sacre Cour steps, Artist's Square, "I love you" wall, and artistic shops; take note that if you decide to walk down towards Moulin Rouge, there are tons of sex shops in the blocks immediately around it)
- Latin Quarter - The oldest part of Paris, close to Notre Dame, has narrow old streets; also has Shakespeare and Co. bookstore
- Les Marais - Some fun places to see in this neighborhood: Place des Voges, Museum Carnavalet, and Marche Des Enfants Rougest (a food market)
- Saint Germain Des Pres - Luxembourg Gardens, Pantheon, lots of bookstores
I could go on and on, but I'm guessing this is more than enough for most :). We had a wonderful time, kids included, and I would highly recommend this as a family trip. If you're planning a trip and want to hear more about any of the above, feel free to message me. Happy travels!
